Poland: Plenty to Love

I originally wanted to go to Poland as a matter of family heritage. But it turns out there is a ton to like there beyond the ancestral village. Quaint, baroque, modern, lovely, horrifying — the country’s history makes for a rich and varied experience. Click to see.

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Tiktin

Tiktin (in Polish, Tykocin) is a small town in eastern Poland, near the city of Bialystok, that seems to have peaked in the early 18th century. It’s also my ancestral village. The main draw today is a synagogue that managed to survive World War II, though of course its congregants — including my relations who had not emigrated — did not. There are a few other sights worth seeing, and all in all it’s a pleasant place to spend an afternoon. Back to Poland index page

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Zakopane Cemetery

This cemetery is well worth the trip to Zakopane, the town’s other virtues aside. It’s not huge, but its mix of folky and modernist memorials — sometimes combined in a single monument — makes it an artistic treasure. Back to Poland index page

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Polish Churches

It’s no surprise that deeply Catholic Poland has churches aplenty. What’s remarkable is the duality of its wooden country churches — many of them UNESCO World Heritage listed — and the splendor of the baroque religious palaces in the cities. More remarkable is that those old country churches, their modest exteriors beautiful enough, often feature some of that baroque splendor inside. Back to Poland index page

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Frank: A Lakefront Masterpiece

Winged skull Frank, carved into a slab at Morgan Shoal’s Pebble Beach, is the most accomplished rock carving that survives on Chicago’s lakefront, along with Roman Villareal’s mermaid near Oakwood Beach. Clearly a fairly recent creation, I had heard rumors that its carver was still around. Now I’ve finally met him — appropriately enough at one of the city’s community meetings to discuss the future of the Morgan Shoal waterfront. The artist is Luke Muzyka, a lifelong South Sider. Muzyka studied art at the School of The Art Institute and the University of Illinois Urbana-Champaign before receiving his degree from

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The Chicago Master of The Mayan Carvings

If you’ve spent any time looking at the limestone blocks that line the lakefront north and south of Foster Avenue Beach in Chicago you’ve probably noticed the carvings that look like they are from ancient Mexico. They should, since some — and probably all — are based on actual Mayan carvings. These art works are complex, so much so that the imagery can take careful study to decipher, just as it does in the actual Mayan ruins. There are skeletons, gods, birds and jaguars, as well as a variety of other shapes and forms as well as multiple instances of

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The Rock Carvings at Fullerton Avenue

Although there are only about two dozen carvings to be found just south of Theater on the Lake at Fullerton Avenue, many are spectacular. These carvings reside on rocks that were relocated in 2016 when the old limestone revetment was replaced with concrete and the parkland was extended slightly into the lake. Many carvings were lost in the course of the reconstruction, but these survived intact, saved at the request of the project’s landscape architect. This map is both printable and interactive — each carving links to its image. Or scroll down for a gallery of all the carvings at

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It’s All About Bobs

Bob is the winning identity along Chicago’s Lake Michigan shore, beating out Tom, John, Jim, Bill and even Joe for the most prolific name carved into the rocks there. I’ve counted about 80 Bobs surviving along the lakefront, though there were certainly many more before miles of limestone blocks and their carvings were torn out in the shoreline protection projects of the early 2000s. So let’s celebrate Bobs, wherever they may be. Read more about Chicago’s lakefront carvings.

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Lakefront Anonymous:
Chicago’s Unknown Art Gallery

$40.00 Thousands of magnificent stone carvings lie hidden in plain sight along Chicago’s Lake Michigan waterfront, a collective work of art and a spontaneous monument to good times by the lake. These carvings are unique in the world and lavishly illustrated in this first book-length treatment. Description One of the world’s most remarkable outdoor art treasures lies hidden in plain sight along Chicago’s Lake Michigan waterfront. Lakefront Anonymous: Chicago’s Unknown Art Gallery tells the story of the thousands of stone carvings by unknown creators that line the city’s shore but have remained mostly invisible to the public. All together it

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